In Gyeongju, You Cycle Past 1,500-Year-Old Royal Tombs Into Hwangnidan-gil’s Café Street

Part 12 of 39 in Only Here: 39 Things You Can Only Do in Korea

Rent a bike in downtown Gyeongju and ride between the grassy mounds of Silla kings at Daereungwon, then roll straight into Hwangnidan-gil, Korea’s busiest café street. Tombs, Cheomseongdae and the alleys are all within 15 minutes of each other.

Featured photo: Kim Gye-ho / Korea Tourism Organization, KOGL Type 1

Only Here: 39 Things You Can Only Do in Korea · Part 12 · Gyeongju

The Daereungwon tombs from above
The Daereungwon tombs from above (Photo: Korea Tourism Organization, KOGL Type 1)
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At a glance

  • What: A walk among the Daereungwon tombs, inside Cheonmachong, the flower fields at Cheomseongdae, Gyerim forest, then the Hwangnidan-gil alleys. Rent a bike or an electric cart and you’ll cover it all in half a day.
  • Cost: Daereungwon is free (since May 4, 2023). When admission was dropped, a separate fee for the inside of Cheonmachong was announced; check the current price at the gate. Cheomseongdae and Gyerim are free.
  • Hours: Check Daereungwon and Cheonmachong hours before you go. The Cheomseongdae area is lit at night, so you can walk it after dark.
  • Crowds: Hwangnidan-gil is busiest at weekend lunchtime and after 3 p.m. Get to popular restaurants at opening time.
  • Getting around: Daereungwon’s stone-wall street is about a kilometer from Gyeongju Intercity Bus Terminal, roughly a 15-minute walk.
  • Paying: Some Hwangnidan-gil shops also take digital Onnuri gift vouchers (@lady_in_busan).
📍 Daereungwon — 31-1 Hwangnam-dong, Gyeongju, Gyeongsangbuk-do
Illustration: Two cyclists riding between the grassy royal tombs of Daereungwon in Gyeongju

Also read: Wear a Hanbok and Seoul's Gyeongbokgung Opens Its Gates for Free: Hanbok Rental and a Palace Walk

A half-day route: Daereungwon to Hwangnidan-gil

1. Enter by the Daereungwon main gate and walk among the tombs

Daereungwon is a park of 23 tombs, including Hwangnamdaechong. The paths wind between them, and as you walk, green hills close in on every side.

The Daereungwon main gate (April 2025)
The Daereungwon main gate (April 2025) (Photo: Kim Chan-yeong / Korea Tourism Organization, KOGL Type 1)
A path between green tombs (August 2023)
A path between green tombs (August 2023) (Photo: Kim Hyo-seo / Korea Tourism Organization, KOGL Type 1)

2. Go inside Cheonmachong

Cheonmachong is the only tomb at Daereungwon you can go inside (Telltrip). Inside you’ll see how it looked when excavated, along with a replica of the Heavenly Horse painting from a saddle flap.

📍 Cheonmachong — 9 Gyerim-ro, Gyeongju, Gyeongsangbuk-do
The exhibit inside Cheonmachong (October 2021)
The exhibit inside Cheonmachong (October 2021) (Photo: Korea Tourism Organization, KOGL Type 1)
The Heavenly Horse painting (October 2021)
The Heavenly Horse painting (October 2021) (Photo: Korea Tourism Organization, KOGL Type 1)
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3. Leave by the back gate and walk to Cheomseongdae

It’s a five-minute walk from Daereungwon’s back gate to Cheomseongdae, a stone tower built under Silla’s Queen Seondeok and known as the oldest surviving observatory in East Asia.

📍 Cheomseongdae — 839-1 Inwang-dong, Gyeongju, Gyeongsangbuk-do
Cheomseongdae (October 2023)
Cheomseongdae (October 2023) (Photo: Hwang Seong-hun / Korea Tourism Organization, KOGL Type 1)

4. Pass through Gyerim forest toward Wolseong

Gyerim, south of Cheomseongdae, is a forest of old zelkova and pagoda trees. In early November the whole wood turns yellow. Keep going and you reach Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond (Part 13).

📍 Gyerim Forest — 1 Gyo-dong, Gyeongju, Gyeongsangbuk-do
Gyerim in autumn (November 2016)
Gyerim in autumn (November 2016) (Photo: Kim Ji-ho / Korea Tourism Organization, KOGL Type 1)

5. Come back to Hwangnidan-gil at dusk

Hwangnidan-gil is the maze of alleys around Poseok-ro along Daereungwon’s west wall, packed with cafés in converted hanok, gift shops and photo studios. After sunset the lights come on under the hanok eaves.

📍 Hwangnidan-gil — 1080 Poseok-ro, Gyeongju, Gyeongsangbuk-do
Hwangnidan-gil (October 2023)
Hwangnidan-gil (October 2023) (Photo: Hwang Seong-hun / Korea Tourism Organization, KOGL Type 1)
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Top 10 things to do at Daereungwon and Hwangnidan-gil

1. The “magnolia photo spot” between the tombs (photo spot)

Daereungwon’s signature shot is a single tree standing between two tombs. Magnolias bloom in spring; in autumn the grass turns gold. On weekends there’s a photo queue for this spot.

A single tree between the tombs (April 2025)
A single tree between the tombs (April 2025) (Photo: Jo Yeong-gwon / Korea Tourism Organization, KOGL Type 1)
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2. Hold up Gyeongju Face Bread in front of a tomb (experience)

The most common photo at Daereungwon right now is a bun shaped like the smiling-face Silla roof tile, held up in front of a tomb. People even share how to shoot the bun separately and composite it into a full-length photo (@zziya117).

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3. Eat 10-won bread (eat)

A Gyeongju street snack: bread shaped like a 10-won coin, baked with cheese inside. The pagoda on the coin, Dabotap, is at Bulguksa (Part 11). Hwangnidan-gil’s 10-won bread shops charge around ₩3,000, and one grandfather’s rice-flour version, generous with the cheese, has queues long enough to sell out over holidays (@lady_in_busan, @gangneung_gamzadori).

📍 Hwangnidan 10-won Bread — 7 Poseok-ro 1068beon-gil, Gyeongju, Gyeongsangbuk-do
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View this post on Instagram

4. The flower fields at Cheomseongdae (photo spot)

The eastern historic area around Cheomseongdae changes its flowers every season. Right now, at the end of October, pink muhly, cosmos, sunflowers and silver grass all fit in one frame (@tree.trip_). Gyeongju’s official English account posted a bloom update too (@gj_tour_eng).

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5. Cheomseongdae at night (see)

Cheomseongdae is lit after sunset. Arrive at golden hour, see it by day and by night, then move on to Donggung and Wolji; that’s the most efficient order.

Cheomseongdae at sunset (October 2021)
Cheomseongdae at sunset (October 2021) (Photo: Korea Tourism Organization, KOGL Type 1)
Cheomseongdae at night (October 2023)
Cheomseongdae at night (October 2023) (Photo: Hwang Seong-hun / Korea Tourism Organization, KOGL Type 1)
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6. Ride a bike or electric cart around the historic area (experience)

Bike and electric-cart rental shops cluster around Daereungwon’s stone-wall street. On Google Maps, samchuly bike (700 Taejong-ro, 4.9) and Gyeongju Scooter (2 Taejong-ro 685beon-gil, 4.9) are close to Daereungwon. Prices vary by shop and vehicle, so compare hourly rates on the spot. The route linking Cheomseongdae, Gyerim and Woljeonggyo Bridge is flat and easy by bike.

📍 Gyeongju Scooter — 2 Taejong-ro 685beon-gil, Gyeongju, Gyeongsangbuk-do
📍 samchuly bike — 700 Taejong-ro, Gyeongju, Gyeongsangbuk-do
Electric cart rental outside Daereungwon (October 2023)
Electric cart rental outside Daereungwon (October 2023) (Photo: Song Jae-geun / Korea Tourism Organization, KOGL Type 1)
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7. Walk the tombs and Cheomseongdae in hanbok (experience)

Hwangnidan-gil has several hanbok rental shops. Hanbok colors look great against the tomb grass, so many people head straight into Daereungwon after renting. Some days you can take photos with people dressed in Silla costume in front of Cheomseongdae (@sssun_new).

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8. A Korean meal on Hwangnidan-gil (eat)

Hwangnidan-gil’s restaurants are strongest at Korean food served inside hanok. A place that rolls scallions and perilla leaves in beef and grills them on a cast-iron lid has locals queuing too (@jjulini_). There are plenty of fusion Korean set-meal spots as well (@da__pajuji__tip).

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View this post on Instagram

9. Look down on the tombs from a hanok café rooftop (photo spot)

Some hanok cafés on Hwangnidan-gil look out over the Daereungwon tombs from a rooftop or a second-floor window. Round tombs layered behind hanok eaves is a view you only get in Gyeongju.

Tombs seen under the eaves (April 2025)
Tombs seen under the eaves (April 2025) (Photo: Kim Gye-ho / Korea Tourism Organization, KOGL Type 1)
Hanok on Hwangnidan-gil (October 2023)
Hanok on Hwangnidan-gil (October 2023) (Photo: Hwang Seong-hun / Korea Tourism Organization, KOGL Type 1)

10. Sunset over the tombs (photo spot)

When the late-afternoon sun hits the Daereungwon grass, the tombs turn gold. On a windless day they reflect in the pond.

The tombs turning gold (October 2021)
The tombs turning gold (October 2021) (Photo: Korea Tourism Organization, KOGL Type 1)
Tombs reflected in the pond (October 2021)
Tombs reflected in the pond (October 2021) (Photo: Korea Tourism Organization, KOGL Type 1)

Nearby

  • Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond: 15 minutes on foot from Cheomseongdae. The heart of Gyeongju at night, Part 13.
  • Gyochon Village and Woljeonggyo Bridge: South of Gyerim. Woljeonggyo is beautiful lit up at night.
  • Gyeongju National Museum: Across from Donggung and Wolji. The real treasures, like the Cheonmachong gold crown, are here.
  • Bulguksa and Seokguram: 30 to 40 minutes by city bus, Part 11.
  • Bomun Tourist Complex: Lakeside cycling and resorts, Part 14.
The tombs and downtown Gyeongju (October 2021)
The tombs and downtown Gyeongju (October 2021) (Photo: Korea Tourism Organization, KOGL Type 1)
Cheomseongdae and its flower fields from above (October 2021)
Cheomseongdae and its flower fields from above (October 2021) (Photo: Korea Tourism Organization, KOGL Type 1)

Hotels nearby

Prices are Google Maps nightly rates, checked October 26, 2026 ($1 = about ₩1,325).

📍 Silla Gotaek — Hwangnam-dong, Gyeongju, Gyeongsangbuk-do
📍 Gyeongju Hanok Hotel Sosojeong — Hwangnam-dong, Gyeongju, Gyeongsangbuk-do
  • Hanok stays: Gyeongju Hanok Hotel Sosojeong (4.8), about $245; Sieunjae (4.8), about $232; Silla Gotaek (4.4), about $118.
  • Budget to mid-range hotels: Poberta Stay Hotel (3-star, 4.0), about $73; Gyeongju GG Tourist Hotel (3-star, 4.1), about $118.
  • Hwangnidan-gil stays fill up early on weekends. The big lakeside hotels at Bomun are in Part 14.

Getting there

① From Gimhae Airport (the closest international airport to Gyeongju)

  • Intercity bus + walk: From the Gimhae Airport stop, take an intercity bus to Gyeongju Intercity Bus Terminal (reported at about 15 a day, about 1 hour 4 minutes, ₩9,500 / $7.20 for an express seat), then walk about 15 minutes to Daereungwon’s stone-wall street. Check the current timetable and fares. It’s the simplest public-transport route from the airport to Hwangnidan-gil.
📍 Gyeongju Intercity Bus Terminal — Noseo-dong, Gyeongju, Gyeongsangbuk-do

② From Incheon Airport

  • AREX + KTX + city bus: AREX from Incheon Airport Terminal 1 or 2 to Seoul Station, a KTX toward Busan to Gyeongju Station (formerly Singyeongju, about 2 hours 10 minutes, roughly ₩49,000 / $37 in standard class), then a city-bound bus from outside the station to the Intercity Bus Terminal / Daereungwon area. Several routes go downtown; ask at the station information desk or check Naver Map for the current number. About four and a half hours in all.
  • Mind the station name: Since December 28, 2023, the former Singyeongju Station has been called “Gyeongju Station.” The old downtown Gyeongju Station has closed.

From Myeongdong

  • Line 4 from Myeongdong to Seoul Station (two stops), then KTX to Gyeongju Station. Or take an express bus to Gyeongju from Dong Seoul Terminal or Seoul Express Bus Terminal and walk to Daereungwon from the terminal; check journey time and fare when you book.
Illustration: Hanok cafés lit up along Hwangnidan-gil at dusk
Hanok cafés lit up along Hwangnidan-gil at dusk (Illustration: Seol Notes)

Sources

  • Daereungwon fee dropped (May 4, 2023), 1.08 million visitors a year: News Seoul
  • Cheonmachong the only tomb open inside: Telltrip
  • Singyeongju renamed Gyeongju Station: Kyongbuk Maeil, December 29, 2023
  • Gimhae Airport to Gyeongju intercity bus: Korea express and intercity bus timetables (updated July 28, 2026)
  • Hwangnidan-gil crowds and restaurants, 10-won bread prices, Cheomseongdae flowers: the Instagram posts embedded above (September–October 2026)
  • Google Maps ratings, hotel rates and bike rental shops: checked October 26, 2026
  • Photos: Korea Tourism Organization (KOGL Type 1), photographer credited on each photo; embedded public Instagram posts and YouTube videos

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